Fennel Cooking

What is it?
Fennel is a perennial herb indigenous to the Mediterranean and available yearround. It’s a main ingredient in absinthe, and contains the same aromatic compound as anise and star anise, which makes them similar in scent. This scent, in fact, is the only way to differentiate fennel from its relative, the poison hemlock.

What do I do with it?
Fennel has a crisp, bright flavor and exceptional crunch when raw, making it ideal for slicing into salads all year long. Toss it into slaw for an earthier spin on the side dish, chop it into “chips” to make vegetable trays more interesting or use it in a mirepoix to give it a lift. The fronds are beautiful as a garnish or as a herby component to citrus or seafood dishes.

Caramelized Fennel and Olive Focaccia with Fennel Frond Pesto
Caramelized fennel plays wonderfully with Kalamata olives and Feta atop focaccia, and using the leftover fronds for pesto is an excellent way to showcase their versatility.

Serves | 24 to 36 |

Focaccia
2 1/2 cups warm water (100 F to 115 F)
2 Tbsp active dry yeast
2 Tbsp honey
2 tsp kosher salt
5 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose
bread flour
1 Tbsp fresh rosemary,
finely chopped
6 1/2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil,
divided, plus more for bowl

Topping
4 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil, divided
1 large fennel bulb, fronds and stalks removed, thinly sliced
1/3 cup water
6 oz Kalamata olives, halved lengthwise
1/2 cup Feta, crumbled Pesto
2 cups firmly packed fennel fronds (2 or 3 fennel bulbs)
1 cup raw sliced almonds, toasted
1-2 cloves garlic
1 cup extra virgin olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground
black pepper

Preparation – Focaccia | In a large bowl,
combine warm water, yeast and honey and let stand until foamy, 5 minutes. Add salt, flour, rosemary and 4ฝ Tbsp olive oil, and stir until dough is rough. Transfer to floured work surface and knead with oiled hands for 5 minutes. Generously oil the bottom and sides of a large bowl. Roll dough in it until thoroughly coated with oil. Tightly cover with plastic wrap and place in a warm area of the kitchen for 1 hour, until doubled in size. Pour remaining 2 Tbsp of olive oil in a lipped halfsheet pan, and spread evenly over bottom and sides of pan. Punch down dough in the bowl and transfer to a sheet pan. Gently ease dough over entire pan with your fingers. If it feels too elastic, cover dough in the pan with plastic wrap and let sit for 5 to 10 minutes, then repeat process. Arrange racks to sit on the bottom and upper middle of a cold oven. Boil 1 cup water and place in a heat-proof cup. Place focaccia pan on the upper rack and the cup of water on the lower rack. Close oven and let steam in cold oven for 30 to 40 minutes, until puffed. Remove pan from oven and preheat to 450 F.

| Preparation – Topping | 
In a large skillet over medium heat, heat 2 Tbsp olive oil. Add fennel; toss to coat. Cook until fennel begins to color. Add water, cover and steam until water has evaporated. Uncover and cook, stirring occasionally until fennel is golden and tender. Set aside to cool. Make indentations in dough with your finger. Drizzle with remaining olive oil and scatter fennel, olives and Feta. Bake on the middle rack of the oven for 25 to 30 minutes until golden brown around edges. Remove and let cool slightly, then slice and serve with Fennel Frond Pesto (see below).

| Preparation – Pesto | 
In a food processor, place fennel fronds, almonds and garlic, and pulse until blended into a thick paste. With the motor running, slowly add olive oil until emulsified and
mixture is homogenous. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

story and recipe by Shannon Weber
Photography by Jennifer Silverberg
Forget what you think you know about fennel. Though its flavor is often compared to black licorice, it does not taste like the much-maligned candy, nor is it harsh or overpowering. Surprised? I was, too, and assuming the worst about fennel kept me from cooking with it for far too long.